How to Build a Farmhouse Hutch
Sometimes I surprise myself. Okay, maybe a lot of the time, but not necessarily always good surprises, haha!
But, when I made a quick sketch of a hutch I wanted to build I was pleased when it actually worked out.
You see, I am much more of a fly by the seat of my pants girl, a trial and error, error, error kind of a person.So, when this hutch came together SMOOTHLY, with no mistakes, well, let's just say I should have gone out and bought a lottery ticket.I started by making the sides. The hutch is 6 ft. tall, 3 ft tall at the lower "counter" part. I joined the wood side pieces at the bottom with a very straight, hardwood piece since this is what the hutch will be sitting on. I included braces at the top for the top of the hutch, at the 3 ft. mark, and in two other spots for the top hutch shelves. I purposely did not make these shelves equal distances apart. Be sure to make 2 opposite sides, i.e. one that faces left and one that faces right.I then joined the two sides with a couple boards (cut to 32 1/4") secured to the bottom, inside shelf braces.Next, I continued to join the sides together by adding boards for the "counter" shelf (I don't know what to call this--it is counter height, thus the name.) I wanted a little overhang so I cut these boards 36" long. This is reclaimed, HARD, barnwood, but this hutch could be made from pallets. I had planned on drilling through the inside brace so that the screws did not show. I was home working by myself and I just couldn't get drilled up through the brace into the hardwood so I drilled down through the top pieces. With the dark stain you hardly notice them. (By the way, you can't go wrong with THESE Makita 18 volt drills.They are small and lightweight and powerful. And, NO, Makita does not pay me or even know I am endorsing these.)I added a top shelf next and then the the other top shelves of the hutch. I also finished adding boards to the inside bottom shelf.Next came horizontal trim pieces under the counter, across the upper shelves, and along the bottom front of the shelf. Then I added a 2"x 2" to divide the middle of the bottom shelf area for the hutch doors.I also added a half shelf to the back of the bottom of the hutch. Here is hint: use two equal sized boards as a jig for shelf brackets. It is much easier than measuring and marking and trying to hold the bracket in place while securing it. I placed a 12" wide board across the brackets for a shelf.I measured the openings for the doors (29"x 15 1/4" I believe) and made two doors. I used lighter weight wood, fence boards) for the doors so that they would not fall forward or make the cabinet too bottom heavy when the doors are open. It also makes hanging them so much easier. I secured the boards together with braces secured on the inside of the door. You do NOT want these braces to extend the entire width (the 15 1/4") of the door because they can get in the way when the door opens.At this point, I forgot to take any more pictures. But, I attached the doors with hinges. I used thin, paneling type boards for the backing. Mine are reclaimed barnwood. Tongue and groove pine or beadboard would work too. I secured the backing with screws in both the top and bottom shelf boards, but also the hutch shelves because it really helps to square up and sturdy the hutch.I also made a toggle for the front cupboard doors with a small chunk of wood, with a hole in the middle. I used washers behind so that it turns easily. I added metal handles. I stained the hutch and then after staining it, added white paint to the outside of the hutch. Ironstone is simply lovely against the dark (Special Walnut) stain. It is in the front display at the Antique Barn where I sell my crazy creations. It came out just like I imagined--imagine that! # style="background: transparent; border: 0;" />
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